To draft a fitted shirt using a prototype pattern template, follow these structured steps. This method assumes you're starting with a basic shirt block or prototype and want to adapt it for a close-fitting (fitted) silhouette.
✅ Materials You Need:
Prototype shirt pattern (basic block)
Pattern paper
Pencil, ruler, French curve
Measuring tape
Your body measurements (especially bust, waist, hips, shoulder width)
Notcher, tracing wheel, scissors
📐 Step-by-Step Guide to Drafting a Fitted Shirt:
1. Start with a Basic Shirt Block
Use a standard shirt pattern template that includes:
Front and back bodice
Sleeves
Collar and placket (optional at this stage)
If you're working from a loose-fit prototype, this will need adjustments for shaping.
2. Mark Key Reference Points
Shoulder point
Bust point
Waistline
Hip line
Armhole (armscye)
Center front and back
3. Add Shaping Through Darts or Princess Seams
To create a fitted look:
Bust darts: Extend from side seam toward bust point, usually stopping 1" before it.
Waist darts (front and back): Draw vertical darts at the waist to bring in volume.
Princess seams (optional): Instead of darts, you can convert them into princess seams for a more tailored fit.
4. Take in the Side Seams
Reduce the side seams from bust down to waist and possibly hips:
Measure your actual bust, waist, and hip circumference.
Subtract ease (usually 2–3 cm for fitted style).
Adjust the side seam curve smoothly to reflect these changes.
5. Redraw the Armhole
As you reshape the side seam, the armhole may become distorted.
Use a French curve to redraw a smooth armhole curve.
Make sure the new armhole still accommodates sleeve fitting.
6. Adjust the Sleeve Pattern
A fitted bodice may need a slightly reshaped sleeve:
Measure the new armhole length and adjust sleeve cap to match.
Reduce sleeve width if necessary to maintain a slim fit.
7. Check and Add Seam Allowances
Add standard seam allowances (e.g., 1 cm) to all pattern edges.
8. Create a Muslin/Toile for Fitting
Cut your pattern in muslin or cheap fabric:
Sew it together.
Test fit on a mannequin or the wearer.
Mark any necessary adjustments directly on the toile.
9. Final Adjustments
Make corrections to the pattern based on your muslin fitting:
Tweak dart positions
Adjust shoulder slope, neckline, etc.
Refine curves for a smooth, flattering fit
Would you like a downloadable prototype template or a diagram to illustrate these steps visually?